Bunnahabhain, 12 yr.
Strength: 43 by volume
Appearance: Deep amber-gold, reddish hue
Nose (straight): Sea salt, dried sea-shells, flint
(diluted): fragrant, mellow, oaty
Mouth feel: sharp then creamy, rich and smooth
Primary taste: nuts, malt, bitter chocolate
After taste: flowers, oak
Finish: Medium, smooth, round and clean
Verdict: Bob and I were sweating it out in the Scotch aisle, because we had narrowed down the purchase to 4 Islays, all of distinctive character. We remember swooning over the 18yr older brother, so the Bunnahabhain 12 soon found its way in the Riedel glasses back at his house. This is an elegant and delicate Islay, made this way from the distillery’s water that rises through the limestone and piped in, skipping the omnipresent peat prevalent throughout the isle. What an absolutely gorgeous color, gold and amber and evenly reddish throughout, almost a shame to drain the glass. Even at 43 ABV, it has a bit of a phenol kick when it first splashes over the tongue, but it settles over the edges like a smooth blanket of moss. Not chewy, it’s too elegant for that, and it lives in the nose for a while, turning from sea to marshmallow to cereal malt as it rests in the glass. We admired it greatly, and a splash of water brought out the refreshing, deep-earth and floral quality.
Drink it: on a cold night, with some strong cheeses; with a hearty soup and thick-crusted bread. This would show well in a heavy, cut-glass tumbler, neat.
Another reason to like it: all by itself up in a tucked away corner of Islay, its the most remote of the distilleries. The Old Salt at the pilot wheel on the burnished label is a pretty good indicator of what’s in store inside.